If you have been thinking about getting an Accuquilt, today is your day! I absolutely love mine. . . but it is currently in Utah and I am in Maine so I have been using the old rotary cutter. This has set off my thumb issues and I have to ice my thumb several times a day. Anyway. . .
I am a HUGE fan of the Accuquilt. You get perfectly cut pieces everytime and it even trims off the dog ears. Your quilting will INSTANTLY become more precise. I was surprised at what a difference it made in my piecing.
On sale today for $296.99!!!
Or get the electric Go Big! like I have for $444.00!!!!
These Amazon prices are cheaper than on the Accuquilt site.
(These are affiliate links. They do not cost you any more to use, but they do help my small home-based business.)
Welcome to October’s Quilt Block Mania! This month’s theme is Family. I think that Christmas 2020 is going to be a great time for homemade gifts. A personalized gift with a photo on it is extra special.
I did a lot of experimenting to discover the best way to print on fabric. You can read about all my fun with my PRINTING ON FABRIC post. I almost destroyed a printer. . . Here’s my advice: buy the June Tailor Fabric Printing Sheets!
They print beautifully and hold up well to gentle washing. At about $2.50 a sheet they are a bargain to keep your printer safe. . .
This block is very easy to make and you could make the block and turn it into a pillow cover in under two hours. What a great gift!
25 of my quilty friends have made up blocks patterns for you that are ABSOLUTELY FREE! Make sure you hop around these links and gather up all the block patterns. You never know when you will need a certain block and these are just awesome. They all finish at 12″ so you can put a family themed quilt together in a jiffy.
I don’t need to have a bunch of pillows cluttering up my home, but I really like to add some seasonal pops to my decor. One of my solutions to this conundrum is to make pillow covers. They are super easy to make. Super easy to change, and of course, super cute!
You need to know the size of the pillow you want to cover. How I figure this out is to squish it down on my cutting mat so I can see the measurements. The pillow that I used in the video was about 17″. You want your cover to be the same size or a “squidge” bigger. Like 1/2″ to no more than 1″ bigger will work on most pillows, but might look floppy on a flattish pillow. Here’s the good news- if it is too loose you can always make it a bit tighter.
Just for fun we are going to go with a more normal size. Most throw pillows tend to be 16″ or 18″. I have used these 16″ pillow forms which I think are a good price and worked well.
If you have a 16″ pillow form, you will want your pillow front to be 16.5″. If your quilt block is 12″ finshed (12.5″ unfinished) you will need to add 2.5 inch strips to all four sides of your block to account for seam allowances.
Block 16″ Finished- 16.5″ unfinished
Border Strips 2″ Finished- 2.5″ unfinished
RULE- Decide how much you need to add to each side and then add your 1/2″ to make up for the two 1/4″ seams.
Now that you have the front of the pillow to the size you need (which in our example will be 16.5″ squared, we need to figure out the back. We are going to make an open backed cover with overlapping pieces so that you will not see the pillow form.
Here comes some quilty math, but it isn’t hard!
Half of a 16″ pillow is 8″. We will need a rolled edge seam, so add 1″. We need a healthy overlap, so let’s add 3″. That adds up to 12″. Cut two pieces that are 12″ wide and 16.5″ tall.
Iron or double fold one of the long sides of each back block to give your self a finshed edge on each piece. If you are using a directional patterned fabric, take care that you sew the inside edges.
Put the front of your pillow on your surface right side up. Place one of the back pieces face down with the seam in the middle. Place the other back piece on the other side so that the two back pieces overlap as shown in the diagram.
This may be a good time to use those long lost pins because the three layers of fabric may slip. Sew a 1/4″ seam all around the edge of the pillow. You should pay careful attention to the places where the back pieces overlap and give those seams a little extra strength by going back and forth an extra time over them.
Turn the pillow cover right side out, push the corners out, and load in your pillow form. Voila!
Know what kind of printer you have and spring for the fabric sheets.
If you are interested in how I reached this brilliant conclusion, read on!
There are lots of experiments with printing on fabric but I had to recreate the wheel and do my own because things/technology/products change. I loved the idea of using photos in quilting projects, but I have heard some horror stories about all the photos disappearing in the wash after the quilt was complete. I don’t want that to happen to me or anyone else. I tried several different processes. . .with differing results. I also almost destroyed a color laser printer during this experiment. Hubs was remarkably tolerant of that adventure and my subsequent trip to Staples to buy an inkjet printer.
If you don’t already have an inkjet printer, this is probably not a great time to buy one. Staples had exactly three in stock for me to choose from. . . and they only had printer cartridges for 1/3, so my decision was simple. The good news is that the HP8035 was simple to set up and connect wirelessly. Apparently some printers can use pigment ink- I did NOT use prigment ink, but I imagine this would be far more effective for this project.
Point number one is very important. I know it makes me sound like an idiot, but I did not know that we were the proud owners of a color laser jet printer at our house in Maine. It makes perfect sense because ink cartridges don’t do well when they are not used on a regular basis, but my hubs bought the printer and I never once considered that it wasn’t a run-of-the-mill inkjet printer. Apparently it didn’t cross his mind either because I have been talking about printing fabric on the inkjet printer for a couple of weeks and it didn’t trigger any thoughts in him. I guess that just proves that he really wasn’t listening to my ramblings.
Anyway. . . I managed to have some success that I probably should not have had with the laser printer. The sample pillow of my dogs was printed with June Tailor fabric sheets on my laser printer. I will never wash it and I try to not touch it much because it still smudges. The yellow arrow shows some of the smudge spots. Now. . . pretend that you have NOT seen this photo unless it is after October 6. Hint, hint.
Before we get to the fabric printing, I want to say a word or two about printing photos. Test prints are important. Keep your photo size small for these to save ink. Depending on what photo software you are using, you may have choices about what “color profiles” to use to print. For example, I have the option of allowing Photoshop to manage my color or to have the printer manage the color. You may need to do some adjustments to your photos before you start printing larger versions.
The first photo allowed the printer to manage the colors. Everything is REALLY saturated. The white in my shirt and the Fox’s little outfit is VERY blue. Our skin tones are quite warm.
The second photo is the same exact photo but allowing Photoshop to manage the color printing. The colors are more true, but the image is pretty dark. The hubs is especially dark- which he would attribute to a good day at the beach, but is really just too shadowy.
The third photo is color adjusted. I allowed Photoshop to do a color adjust and a tone adjust. I did not do any manual editing. WAIT- I did brighten up the exposure by about half a point- a lesson I have learned over the years. I think the result is much better than the first two. The Princess’s nearly white hair looks best in this photo.
The moral of this lesson is: let your photo management software fix things. You will be happier. And when in doubt, up the exposure a bit. Things tend to print a little dark.
Now. . . here we go with the results of my experiment.
LASER PRINTER TEST RESULTS
June Tailor fabric paper- about 50% success rate at actual printing. Ink smudges on project. . . even after several days. I did not try to rinse- pretty sure it will all wash out.
Avery fabric sheets- DO NOT ATTEMPT! The Avery fabric sheets are mounted onto a plasticy backing that melts in the heat of the laser printer. The printer had been on for a while and when I reached in to get the jam out was my first clue that I was not dealing with an inkjet printer. (This should have also given me a clue that there was something different about these sheets, but no. That took longer.)
Riley Blake White fabric mounted on freezer paper- I did manage to get this through the laser printer but only once. The ink looked weird and when I tried to wash it, it really faded.
I DO NOT RECOMMEND using a laser printer for this project. The results were less than stellar.
INKJET PRINTER TEST RESULTS
Here is my methodology.
I printed photos on different mediums using different techniques. All samples were allowed to dry for 48 hours. (Photo 1 taken at this time.) I rinsed them under running water for 30 seconds and allowed to air dry. I did not crumple them or rub them. . . just let the water run over them. (Photo 2 taken at this time.) Then I placed the photos into a washing machine set at cool and delicate wash for a short cycle. I did add two color catchers in with the wash. When the cycle finished I put them in the dryer on low heat. When dry, I ironed with a dry iron. (Photo 3 taken at this time.}
June Tailor- The June Tailor paper was super easy to use. The edges stay together and go through the printer nicely, but when you remove the paper that is easy, too. It held color well, washed well, and ironed well. My only complaint is that the fabric is a bit stiff- even after being washed and dried.
Avery- So. . . I should have read the directions. But that would be against my nature! The Avery sheets went through the printer beautifully. When I rinsed it, the paper-ish stuff on the back did not come off. . . because it was an adhesive. (Good thing I didn’t try to iron it!) These sheets are meant to be printed on and then ironed onto an item. I’m sure they would be awesome for lots of projects. . . but not for this project.
Riley White on Freezer Paper- I ironed a rough cut of fabric onto a rough cut of freezer paper and then trimmed the piece to exactly 8.5″ x 11″ to go through the printer. The edges were a little funky but it did go through the printer. The ink adhered well but did not look as dark or saturated as the June Tailor paper. This did well just being rinsed, but lost a bit of ink in the laundry cycle. I would still be able to use the resulting images- especially if you were looking for a watercolor-ish look.
Riley White on Paper- I sprayed a rough cut of fabric with 505 adhesive spray and then smoothed a piece of computer paper onto the fabric. I used the paper as the template to trim the fabric. This went through the printer fine (make sure you get the edges sprayed down) and was slightly lighter than the freezer paper print. The trouble started in trying to get the paper off the fabric. Wherever I sprayed on the heavier side, the paper did not come off. I tried gently rubbing it while rinsing, but I didn’t want to ruin the print. The excess paper did come off in the laundry. (We won’t ponder where it went. . .) This was the lightest print to begin with and lost some color in the laundry. It’s usuable, but not the best print.
Ease of Use- TIE! June Tailor and Avery
THE DECISION IS. . .
Initial Color Print- TIE! June Tailor and Avery
Color Retention after Rinse/Air Dry- All had same results
Color Retention after Machine Wash/Dry- June Tailor
And the winner is. . . June Tailor Fabric Sheets with white fabric on freezer paper in second place.